Watch me learn, watch me fail, watch me post it regardless of how it looks.

Sewing Necessities

I credit my list to a lovely book that my aunt gave me a couple of years ago, "Reader's Digest, Complete Guide to Sewing." (The link is to a newer version of the book; mine is circa 1995.) This book has been my saving grace at times. If I actually think about something before I get started, I will turn to my book and look up the "correct" way to go about it. Hopefully this list will be helpful to you as well.


I am going to give each item either one (*) or two stars (**).
One Star (*) = Nice to have around
Two Stars (**) = Necessary to have around


I was planning on posting pictures of each item, so you could have any idea of what it is, but then I read something about bad manners and copyright infringement if I used someone else's photos. *rolls eyes* 


Mind you, I don't own the majority of this stuff either, but I hope to eventually!


Measuring Devices



Tape Measure - (**) "essential for taking body measurements and when making slipcovers.


Hem Gauge - (*) "speeds up marking of straight or curved hems, enabling edge to be turned and pressed in one step. Useful for adjusting pattern lengths.


Sewing Gauge - (*) "is 6 in (15 cm) ruler with a sliding marker that adjusts to desired measurement, and keeps it constant when marking. Ideal for hems, scallops, tucks, pleats, button-spacing."


L Square - (*) "is useful for locating cross grains; altering patterns; squaring off straight edges."


Yardstick - (**) "is the best device for long, straight measurements. Suitable for checking grainlines, marking hems, measuring windows for curtains."


Dress Form - (*) "simplifies fitting procedures; the type illustrated is fully adjustable and comes complete with stand. It can also be used to mark hemlines, lapel roll lines, button and pocket position lines."


Rotary Ruler - (*) A clear ruler that comes in a variety of sizes. Used to hold fabric in place on a rotary mat and measure accurately at the same time. An essential for quilters.


Marking devices


Tailor's Chalk Wedges - (*) "ideal for construction markings and fitting alterations; come in several colors. One type of pack comes with a holder and chalk sharpener; chalk can also be bought in separate packs"


Chalk in Pencil Form - (**) Also known as a dressmaker's pencil. "is used like any pencil; makes a thin, accurate line, fine for marking pleats, buttonholes, and similar details. A dress=maker's pencil may have a hand brush eraser attached."


Fabric Marking Pen - (*) "can be used provided the marks wash away or fade with time. Check before using to make sure marks can be completely removed from the fabric.


Tracing Wheel - (**) "is used with dressmaker's tracing paper to transfer pattern markings to wrong side of fabric. Tracing wheels are suitable for most fabrics, but should be used with care on sheers and loosely woven fabrics."


Dressmaker's tracing paper - (*) "comes in packs containing several colors, including white. Test on a scrap of fabric before using to make sure that markings will not come through to right side of fabric when it is ironed." This transfers the marks from a pattern to your fabric in color, for a more accurate seams and darts.


Shears and Scissors


Bent-handle dressmaker's shears - (**) "are best for pattern cutting; angle of lower blade lets fabric lie flat. Made in 6 to 12 in lengths; 7 and 8 in are used most often."


Pinking shears - (*) "cut zigzag, fray resistant edge Excellent for finishing seams and raw edges on many types of fabric, also for decorative use. Should not be used to cut out patterns. Come in 5 1/2 to 10 in lengths; 7in is a good choice."


Serrated edge scissors - (**) Otherwise known as polyester shears, "cut synthetics, knits, and sheers, trim close to stitching line. Serrated blades prevent slipping or stretching. Come in various lengths."


Sewing Scissors - (**) "come in various lengths. One blunt point prevents the snagging of fabric when trimming"


Light Trimmers - (*) "are ideal for repairs, alterations, trimming seams, small cutting jobs. Good size choices: 6 in and 7 in." 


Embroidery Scissors - (*) "also useful for general needle-work, ripping, clipping. Some have bent-up points for easier use.


Thread clipper - (**) "also called palm scissors, can be kept, ready to use, in palm of hand while sewing." 


Rotary Cutter - (**) A cutting tool use on rotary mats to cut clean lines in fabric. Predominantly used for quilting. Comes in a variety of sizes; larger rotary tools can cut more layers of fabric, while a smaller one focuses on cutting one piece. 


Threads


Note: All threads are considered necessary (in my opinion) depending on what fabric you are using. Always try to use the appropriate thread for the fabric you are sewing with. 


General Purpose

  1. Polyester: An all-purpose weight (approx size 50), suitable for hand and machine sewing on most fabrics, but particularly recommended for woven synthetics, also for knits and other stretch fabrics of any fiber. Most polyester threads have a wax or silicone finish to help them slip through fabric with a minimum of friction.
  2. Cotton: A medium thickness (size 50) is available in a wide range of colors, including variegated shadings (other sizes made in black and white only although variegated cotton also comes in size 30). Used for machine and hand sewing on light and medium weight cottons, rayons, and linens. Cotton thread is usually mercerized, a finishing process that makes it smooth and lustrous, also helps it to take dye better. The lack of give in cotton thread makes it an unwise choice for knits or other stretchy fabrics as the stitches tend to pop.
Soft Machine Cotton
  1. Cotton: A loosely twisted thread, sizes 40 and 50, used for basting. Loose twist makes it easy to break for quick removal from the garment. Available only in white and black. Has no seam.
Heavy-Duty
  1. Polyester: Very strong thread, size 30 . Comes in a wise range of colors. Suitable for hand or machine sewing.
Nylon
  1. Nylon: A strong, monofilament thread made in two transparent shades to blend in with light- or dark-colored fabrics. Used for hand and machine sewing of hems. Nylon thread has good elasticity, but it is very difficult to tie the ends off satisfactorily.
Button and Carpet
  1. Polyester/cotton, linen: Tough, thick thread made from a polyester core wrapped in cotton, or from linen. Used for hand-sewing jobs requiring super thread strength such as saddle-stitching, repairing carpets. Usually has a glazed finish to enable it to slip easily through heavy fabric.
Buttonhole Twist
  1. Silk: Used for top stitching and hand-worked buttonholes, also for decorative hand sewing, including smocking, and for sewing on buttons. Size 10/3, available in a wise range of colors. May be difficult to find.
Elastic
  1. Nylon/cotton-wrapped rubber: A thick, very stretchy thread used for shirring on sewing machines. Elastic thread is wound on bobbin only. Tight, but not too tight. 
Embroidery
  1. Stranded cotton: Six mercerized cotton thread strands twisted loosely together, made for decorative hand work. Strands can be separated for very fine work. Sold by the skein in a wise range of colors.
  2. Soft Cotton: Not mercerized, suitable for bold hand embroidery and tapestry work. Sold by the skein.
  3. Mercerized cotton: Special thread suitable for machine embroidery. Has different sizing: size 30 is medium fine and size 60 is very fine (suitable for pin tucking).
Metallic
  1. Metallized synthetic: Shiny silver- or gold-colored thread, used for decorative stitching by hand or machine.
Pins

Dressmakers pins: suitable for most types of fabrics

Lace and Silk pins: used for delicate fabrics

Ball-Point pins: Used for knit fabrics to prevent piercing (and hence breaking) or yarn.

Colored head pins: Easy to see and handle

T-pins: convenient for heavy pile fabrics and loose knits.

Twist or swirl pins: plastic head and twisted stem; hold loose covers, etc. in place.


Sewing Aids


Pin Cushion - (**) Great for storing pins and keeping them accessible! 


Thimble - (*) protects middle finger during hand sewing.


Seam Ripper - (**) "has sharp, curved edge for cutting seams open and a point for picking out threads. Can also be used for slashing machine-worked buttonholes. Use ripper carefully to avoid accidental cutting of fabric."


Pin Trapper - (**) "practical and safe magnetic plate on which to keep steel pins by you while you are sewing."


An awl or stiletto - (*) "a small, sharp instrument used to make the round holes needed for eyelets or key-hole button holes. 


Bodkin - (**) "a tool shaped like a long, blunt needle and is used  for threading elastic or cord through a casing. Can also be used to turn bias tubing. Bodkin types vary; some have an eye through which elastic or cord can be threaded, others a tweezer or safety pin closure."


Rotary Cutting Mat - (**) A rotary cutting mat is used as a flat surface to cut fabric with rotary tools. Available in a variety of sizes.








Other/Misc.






Hook and loop tape

Buttons